Sunday, November 25, 2007

The craziest night of my life

Yes I am really having fun! haha, well....with what happened last night how could it not be fun?

I doubt he learned his lesson. I bet the next snake he sees hes gonna pick up for redemption. Hopefully he doesnt get bitten again. I hope we can get moving soon too. Hopefully tomorrow.

shut out....SHUT DOWN! 16-0. UCLA comes through in the clutch. Im loving it. Next week is gonna be a good game. Jaime, rock the LA gear...but not LA Gear, thats just out of style. Ill try to find them when we get down there for sure. I dont think this time around ill have time to stop and learn spanish, but perhaps when I come back from the trip to pick up my bag Ill spend a week with them.

And one more thing, as soon as I talk about how well I think the Lakers are doing, they crap out two games in a row. Que lástima!

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Two nights ago I became a man. On Thursday, Brandon (one of the four guys im gonna travel with) and I went to Fuentes Georginas. It was a clear day and the church was looking very pretty.To get there, you take a bus from Xela to a town called Zunil. On the way, the bus stopped to pick up more passengers and this was my view from the window...not a coincidence I think.From Zunil you hop on one of several pickups waiting to take visitors up the hill. We found one pickup and hopped on the back of it and took off up the hill. It was a lot of fun riding up the mountain in the back of a pickup with the wind blowing through our hair and driving through the clouds with the precipitation dampening our face. The view was great too; hillsides with all kinds of vegetables growing and the smell of onions and lettuce as we drive by. This is a shot of Brandon in the back of the truck as we head up to Fuentes Georginas.The hot springs themselves are very relaxing. There are three pools with varying degrees of hotness..from tepid to comfortable to scorching! The scorching was my favorite at first..but soon i found myself lounging in the tepid waters to cool off. By the end of it I was shriveled up like a raisin..it was pretty nasty. Anyways, here are some photos from the pools.We left the springs around 5:30 and caught a ride in the back of a truck of a family that was visiting Xela from the coast. The ride down was just as beautiful, if not moreso, than the way up. The sun was setting and the clouds looked a fiery orange, the hills dark green, and the wind was biting cold.Well, it was a friday night and we were feeling good from the hot springs and wanted to go out and do something. I remembered that about a week before when we went to listen to some live jazz at a local restaurant, the waitress told us about a benefit party for one of the NGO's in town (of which there are hundreds, and there are these benefit type parties almost every week). TO make a looong story...less long...we had good music, good drinks, and good company all night. Around 1:30am we head back to the crib to call it a night. Or do we?Twas a full moon and a beautiful night. Volcán Santa Maria looked lonely, longing for the company of a few travelers. There we were, a group of four ready to share our night with the mountain that betrayed Peter with a snake bite. At 2:30am we head out from the hostel and catch a cab to the base of the volcano. The nightmare begins. At 6000 feet in Xela, we began our ascent up to the 14000 foot summit which we hoped to reach before dawn. The moon shed light on our path and we didnt need to use the headlamps we brought. The rush of adrenaline gave us a false sense of confidence that we would continue our initial pace all the way to the top. Then the swtichbacks started, at first long and with a shallow incline. We reached the clouds an hour and half into the climb and the wet, muddy trail became steeper and the switchbacks shorter. Another hour passes and light begins to creep out of the east, as the moon sets in the west. We reach the spot where the snake bite took place, and know that the summit cant be far. But I cramp up, the lactic acid building up telling my legs to give in. The guys keep going. They are like mountain goats or something, the altitude, incline, weather...nothing seems to bother them. My guess is that its because they are from Colorado and climb mountains every weekend! Im there out of breath, out of life it seems. The sun begins to rise and I know the only reason they arent at the top yet is because they are going at my pace. I tell them to push on and that I will follow. Almost an hour and half later I finally reach the top, and the adrenaline that began this crazy ascent rushes back into me. Im at the top of the world! This is what I saw...
The last picture is of Volcán Santiaguito, the most active volcano in Central America, some 4-5 thousand feet below. On our way down, I got to see just how beastly of a mountain it was that we ascended.I passed out for a good part of yesterday, a saturday...and enjoyed some live jazz again over a glass of wine. Life has been good.

With any luck, well be leaving tomorrow for a farm a couple hours away to put in some manual labor and learn how to pick coffee and cocoa, learn how to process it, milk some cows and make tortillas the guatemalteco way. For 50Q a night, we get three meals and shelter, and the opportunity to help out and learn some skills. At last, Xela will be in the past.

Keep it fresh...like the air at 14000 feet...like the drama in my storytelling!

- Neil

Thursday, November 22, 2007

I was in the hospital yesterday!

Before you get all flustered, I said I was "in" the hospital...not "admitted" to the hospital!

Yes, Ive been keeping up with the Lakers and I like what I see. They seem to be playing like an NBA team instead of a bunch of schoolboys watching Kobe play 1-on-5. Hopefully all the trade rumors are buried now and they can focus on playing ball and making a run for a top 4 seed in the west this year. Ill be back to catch a game or two after the allstar break im sure. The indian food was alright, nothing more. And i think you can get those GSE seeds in the US easier than over here man, like at TJs or Henrys.

To be honest, I had no idea that I would be backpacking. I thought, like I told all of you, that I would be volunteering with QT right off the bat and doing a little bit of traveling towards the end. But, plans changed and now I am getting ready to take off southbound as far as the wind takes me. And anSON you can take a shot of patron for me, you know.

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So, the hospital...

I was planning to leave Xela yesterday and head down with the group of American guys towards Lago Atitlan. Well, on Tuesday while I was recovering from the stomach problem/fever they decided to climb one of the dormant volcanoes nearby called Santa Maria. Its about 14,000 feet high, so about an 8000 foot altitude change from Xela (which is at roughly 6000). The hike can be done in one day, but they planned on climbing and spending the night there, coming down the next morning and heading out to the lake. On their way up, one of the guys Peter sees a snake about 2 feet long and decides to pick it up. The snake didnt appreciate the invasion of its personal space so it bit Peter in the hand. The guys thought nothing of it at first because they had a snake bite kit with them and administered the remedy. But when his hand doubled in size in a matter of 10 minutes, they knew they should turn around.

Turns out Peters bite was non-poisonous but infected and he had to be admitted to the hospital for 3-4 days. So much for leaving for the lake yesterday, or this week for that matter! I went to the hospital yesterday to go see him and his arm looks crazy! Its like he has one normal arm and one fat-mans arm! Seeing the hospital was a very interesting experience itself. Its a government run hospital so parts of the building are in disrepair, and the equipment is not great. Overall though, the conditions in the hospital are acceptable, Id say. He should be out in a couple days.

Now that I have a couple extra days in Xela, I am looking for day trips to take to entertain myself. Tomorrow I am going to go to the hot springs of Fuentes Georginas, about an hour and a half away. I spend alot of time reading now, and alot of time eating. I finished The Kite Runner yesterday; its a great book. I started on Cradle to Cradle, which I will probably finish tonight or tomorrow as well. Im ready to take off and see some other parts of Guatemala, and come back to Xela later on.

My time at the internet cafe has run out.

Keep it fresh to death.

- Neil

Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Welcome to Guatemala

I have no clue how blogger knows your names. Its pretty cool actually. It might have something to do with your gmail account. When I sign in to gmail, i am automatically signed in to blogger too, so maybe thats how they get it.

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I was waiting for it...and it finally showed up. The Guatemalan bacteria/virus/bug got me. Welcome to Guatemala, they said! I woke up yesterday and my stomach was not happy at all. I dont know what the "runs" are, but i think i might have had them yesterday! I had a fever all night and the chills, the full course. The guys that Im heading out to the lake with, gave me some GSE drops (Grapefruit Seed Extract) to take. They said its a super immune booster and the stuff worked wonders! Today, I feel almost 100% better!

Interestingly enough, the night before I got sick, I had my first taste of Indian food here in Xela. Apparently the place was rated Best Food in Xela for 2007, and being that its an Indian joint I had to try it. Its called Sabor de la India: (you wanted to see a picture with me in it, so here you go!)
I had some chicken tikka masala, samosas, and naan. I went with this guy Neil. No, I didnt go with myself. I actually met a guy named Neil who is from D.C. and is down here just chilling and learning spanish. Turns out hes a DJ, who likes hip hop music, and has an older sister. Weird....

Earlier in the day I saw him in the internet cafe and he invited me to go up to "Los Vahos", a spot up on the mountain where a family has trapped natural steam vents in litttle rooms that are like saunas. It was a nice hike up. It was the first time that I had a chance to get above the city and take in the view from above..
And the saunas were super hot and very relaxing. They put some eucalyptus leaves in there so the aroma is nice too. The little shack/hut is where you sat in to catch the steam. So its almost been a week here in Xela and I am ready to get a move on. Quetzaltrekkers is on the backburner now and the trip ahead of me is priority numero uno. I have to travel light (one bag only) and I came down with two, so I packed a bunch of extra stuff in the duffel bag and the owner of the internet cafe I go to is willing to hold onto it for me until I get back. He is saving me about 200 bucks, which is how much it would cost for to ship it back home. The plan is to go to Lake Atitlan and Antigua. The guys im going with got a hold of a "secret" map which were gonna follow to get us to the lake! Ill let you know how it goes...

Heres a cute picture that I got yesterday when I was walking around the town =)
Keep it fresh...like the gorilla-suit soulja boy! YYYYYYOOOOOOOUUUuuuuuuuu!!!!

- Neil

Sunday, November 18, 2007

Decisions...

Concerning your comments:

I took the pictures around noon-time, which happens to be a really quiet time on the streets. Even more quiet than the rest of the day, which is by no means busy. Today is Sunday and the only people outside are the guys passed out on the sidewalk from a crazy Saturday night, boys and girls playing, and of course fellow travelers. The church is really beautiful, and its only one part of the church. There is a much bigger church behind it that I couldnt get to because there was a service going on.

Lemme tell you, the bed situation is definitely code red! The back wall of my room has some stuff growing on it. Im not sure what it is, but I dont think its very healthy to be breathing it in. Luckily tonight will be my last night in that room for a while.

It does feel nice to be out here. Xela is really a large city with a small town atmosphere. Im looking forward to seeing other parts of the country as well.

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Speaking of which, I PLAN on leaving tomorrow to San Pedro La Laguna, a town on the shores of Lake Atitlan. I say "plan" because nothing down here has gone to plan yet, so by the time you read this I could possibly be in Belize, Nicaragua, or even back in the States...who knows!? My expectation (valid, i must say) of starting work with QT right away has not held up. Apparently they have a full staff right now and I can only join when one of the current guides leaves, which is not until mid-december. My options then are to wait it out here in Xela, travel around and come back when they are ready, or look for another opportunity altogether to do some volunteer work.

After hours of deliberation in my hole-in-the-wall room, I decided to join a group of guys backpacking through central and south america on their trip through guatemala. They are staying at Casa Argentina as well, which is how I met them. If the QT thing pans out in a couple weeks, then I will part ways with those guys and head back to Xela.

I have also been keeping in touch with a UCLA group called Global Business Brigades (GBB) that is planning to go down to Honduras in January to work on forming a coffee coop. My plan was to meet them in january, however now I might have the opportunity to go down earlier and work with the liaison who is permanently in Honduras. Anyways, maybe Ill stick with these guys until Honduras opens up and Ill go there instead of back to Xela.

Vamos a ver...(well see)

There are a lot of foreigners here! All the coffee shops and bars are filled with gringos and their spanish tutors. If you dont try, you really dont have to speak spanish here to get by. One of the reasons I havent started Spanish classes here is because there are so many foreigners with whom I can take the easy route and converse in English. There are spanish schools throughout the country, many in places more remote and less tainted by foreigners. Perhaps Ill get a week of school in somewhere there.

Food has been kind of a rollercoaster ride so far. When I eat out at local spots, the food is good but not too varied. They dont eat too many vegetables here, even though they sell them abundantly in the market. Maybe they dont make the vegetarian dishes at restaurants as much as they do at home. The spices and food that I brought down with me havent been touched yet, but I plan on breaking em out soon. Im looking forward to some chicken biryani!

It seems as though the next few days will prove to be very interesting...and I will have more pictures and stories. Take care, hasta luego.


Keep it fresh...keep it nuevo.

- Neil

Friday, November 16, 2007

Xela who?

This is a photo post. First, my hostel. The spot is quaint, to put it nicely. But I couldnt handle the dormitorio-style living. I had to get my own room...
Lucky for me they had the presidential suite available! For a hefty 25Q a night ($3.25/night) I got to stay in this room made for a king:

The following pictures are some random photos of the city and view from the hostel...

Well, for now this is all i have. Ill be back in a few.

Keep it fresh...like the prince of Bel Air.

- Neil

Thursday, November 15, 2007

First Impressions

First off, ill try to get up some pictures the next time i write. Today is my first full day in Xela; its about 11:30am and i had some breakfast and walked around the neighborhood a bit. The city is divided into Zonas, i think about 12 of them. Casa Argentina, the hostel I stayed at last night and HQ for Quetzaltrekkers (henceforth QT), is in Zona 1.

Yesterday was a long day. After reaching "Guate", as its called, I had an hour or so before my bus left for Xela. I got some water at one of the indigenous local spots, Burger King, where a lady and her grand-daughter started chatting it up with me. To make a long story short, they wanted to walk me to the Bus station and we ended up going the wrong way. And carrying two backpacks and a duffel bag got to be pretty ridiculous in the 85-90 degree afternoon. Eventually I grabbed a taxi to take me all of 200 meters to the bus station, which was in the one direction that the lady didnt take me! Pretty much a zombie by the time the bus left, I missed out on much of the scenery along the 4.5 hour drive to Xela. The parts that I was awake for were pretty much breathtaking. At one point, closer to sunset, we were driving along a ridge and to the left was a lake shadowed by 2 enormous volcanoes between which the sun shone with an orange-red glow. My comatose prevented me from getting out my camera, but i wish i did.

It was dark by the time I reached Xela, and my goal was to just find the hostel and crash. It was a 10 minute taxi ride and once I reached I was shown to the "dormitory" style room with some 25 beds haphazardly arranged for careless backpackers and wanderers. Needless to say it was a new experience for me. Before bed, I meandered over to the back of the hostel where the QT office is. I met up with one of the guides who fed me a much needed meal and we talked a little about what the org. is all about. Sooner rather than later, I decided I needed to sleep.

This morning I decided to take a walk around Xela to find a good internet and phone spot. Its a sleepy town with not too much traffic and life is definitely slower here. With a higher population of indigenous people, Xela is still a well-kept secret in the sense that there arent many tourists here. Shops open at 10am or later, people walk about at a leisurely place...in fact the only people i saw up at 9am were tourists! The locals are all about a foot shorter than me, but super nice. And in just one day, I can see a marked improvement in my Spanish. Spanish is actually the main reason tourists come here; there are countless spanish schools and even a few Ki'che schools (the most well known and widely spoken of the 20 odd mayan languages still in existence). I think Im gonna take advantage of the spanish schools, and get myself a tutor. Itll be a good way to meet people as well.

Special note: The coffee IS bomb! If any of you want something but dont know what...then Ill bring you a bag of coffee!!

Keep it fresh...like guatemalan coffee.

- Neil

Sunday, November 11, 2007

Preparing for takeoff

If you made it here, that means that you found my email (most likely in your junk folder!) and actually believed what I had to say in it.

SO, this is where im gonna try to keep yall posted with what I have been up to, what I have learned, and maybe even a little reflection..if i have time. My goal is to post once a week, and put up pictures as well. Feel free to leave comments and/or questions and ill try to get back to you the next time I post.

Keep it fresh.

- Neil